I am a fan of gray hair. There is something that is truly alluring about a shiny silver mane sported in a classy, chic style. However not everyone has the fabric, the skin, or the desire to go the route of the ‘silver fox’.

For some, gray hair signifies something completely different, and its swift concealment is the only solution.

Ranging from the rare gray peaking through, to the full silver mane, pick the stage of cover that is right for you:

Stage One – The First Gray Hair

This is the peek-a-boo stage when you see a few pop up here and there. Firstly; tweezing one does not make two grow back, that’s a myth! It simply means that you have now crossed the threshold into becoming fertile ground for the little guys to sprout.

Since there are only a few here and there, consider semi permanent color options as they will not do too much alteration to your natural color (unless you want them to), and they will ‘stain’ your new color-challenged follicles. Even if the grays are not completely covered, the staining action makes them appear slightly ‘highlighted’ (per se) and will still be forgiving. If total coverage is your goal, move on to stage two.

Stage Two – The Gray Invasion

This is when you realize your uninvited guests are here to stay. This is when it’s time to seek a more permanent solution. There are many color options and this can be a fun opportunity to explore new styles and colors.

There are a couple of things to consider however; firstly, gray hair is often (and no one is sure why) more course and unruly and has a more difficult time adhering as opposed to your natural. The good news is there are many colors that are formulated for gray hair coverage that have a double dose of pigment. There are also additives and drops you can add to the formula that allow color to better cover (these are mainly professional options).

The second point is that if you ever thought your gray hair grows slowly; start coloring it. Your regrowth will show you directly how fast your hair grows. If you have not colored before, start to consider that you will now have a new category in your beauty budget!

Stage Three – There’s No Hiding From The Grays

This is when you find you are pretty much ‘salt and pepper’ (can’t anyone come up with a more flattering term?) or going totally gray. This is where you have to decide whether you are going to embrace the gray or continue to color (see stage two) – but assuming you opt for continual color (which is why I am here), I offer you these considerations.

Highlights are very forgiving in gray-dominated hair and adding streaks of blonde shades add a hint of youthful freshness (choose a couple for balance). Also, against the background of gray hair, they are much more forgiving in retouches. Some also opt for lowlights.

This is where you can add darker streaks back into the hair to start to incorporate the shades of days gone by back into your look. This allows your new color to play nicely with the gray that has taken over.

Whether you color your hair, and for how long, is a personal decision. How you perceive the appearance of gray is also a personal ponderance. Whether you reach for the bottle and brush, or simply nod in the satisfaction that you are fine the way you are, gray hair is simply another phase of life. For me, it can turn gray, as long as it doesn’t turn loose!

Okay gentlemen, here and now is the time to realize that we are allowed to make ourselves look and feel good just as much as the ladies.

Although the products and processes are similar, I do respect that the reasons prompting our journey, as well as the desired results, vary greatly between genders.

When a guy decides to color his hair, he has already made a bold breakthrough in accepting the fact that he is going to have to look really ‘uncool’ for about a half hour to do so.

That takes a lot for us, so give us some slack.

The beautiful thing is that most men do not opt for results that require a lot of dexterity to achieve, so we can tackle many of these needs in the privacy of our own bathroom. Although, accept that there are times when you may need to ask for help from a professional (this is not asking for directions you know!)

For those who opt for noticeable or fashionable color, often it is lightening that takes the spotlight. Fellas, please…do not divide your head into the northern and southern hemisphere and bleach the top totally leaving the underneath section dark. Avoid this unless you never want to date again, ever.

Coloring your hair blonde – The male way!

To get nice natural blonde effect – here is a great trick (especially for shorter hair). Use a firm hairspray and spray your hair straight out on end from your head. Think early 70’s punk (trust me, this is only temporary!)

Then mix your color or bleach (bleach works best for this believe it or not) and put on rubber gloves (don’t play the hero guys, chemical burns are not pretty!)

Place a dollop in the palm of your gloved hands and simply ‘touch’ the color onto the very tips of the spikes. Try to feather the color in a progressive manner as opposed to looking like you were ‘dipped’ in bleach. A little inconsistency is okay.

Also make sure to taper off the color where you plan to stop. Meaning if you only want to do the top, do it heavier on the very top, lesser over the sides until it is barely visible in the lower areas. Stay in front of a mirror and shampoo it off after about five to ten minutes. You can always re-apply but it is hard to go back. This gives a great “lifeguard blonde” look.

Men who want to use color to cover gray

For those who want to blend their gray, you can use the ‘soap cap’ technique mentioned in our article on natural hair coloring. The other natural color principles also apply here to men.

There are many products like ‘Just for Men’ that help blend gray and are formulated to address the needs of men, and many times these are also strong enough to tackle facial hair too.

If you are coloring the hair on top of your head, color your facial hair. If you don’t, you’re not fooling anyone!

Also, if the directions tell you to process for twenty minutes, check it in ten.

The first couple of times you will want to give yourself some time to get used to the new you. Going shoe polish black because you got caught up in the game on television during the color processing is only going to buy you a lot of teasing from your buddies. You can always re-apply more and process longer if necessary.

Should a man really color his hair?

With men, coloring your hair can be the difference between getting the job or not. Unfair as it may be, we can be judged of our capabilities by our appearance and perceived ‘maturity’. For those who are thinning (I say, “I am growing too tall for my hair, thank you very much”) color not only makes hair appear thicker, but it can diminish the overall thinning effect by giving hair more “oomph” and style-ability.

Hair color allows us to look and feel younger, vital, and fresh. Plus it is an advantage for those who want to spice up a current relationship, or put bait on the hook to secure a new one – we deserve to look good as much as anyone else does.

Since makeup is not an option for most men, hair color can make us look younger, more rested, current and tidy, and give us the confidence we need to do what we have to do. So guys set aside the unnecessary bravado and consider some color.

There is something to be said about the guy who takes pride in himself enough to always bring his A-game – that something is usually ‘wow!’

“It really brings out your eyes!” Have you heard this before? Have you said this before?

Yes, the eyes are the window to the soul, but this does not necessarily have to narrow your window to beautiful hair color options.

In my two and a half decades of hairdressing I have heard many theories on matching hair and eye colors. Some say cooler toned eyes should have cooler toned color. On the other hand, some say the complete opposite. Yet others will gaze forensically at your iris and say that you have ‘tiny flecks of gold’ in your eye color so you need gold tones.

I know it is confusing. Honestly, for me, eye color is only a small part of the recipe when it comes to color selection. There is personal style, taste, hair style, hair fabric, skin tone–on and on. Don’t feel because you were born with brown eyes you cannot be a blonde or that if you have green eyes, you must wear red. You are still free to choose!

So which shades match your eye color?

All that being said, there are still eye colors that come alive more so against certain hair color backgrounds. The same goes with certain skin tones and hair styles (click on the links to read more!) Remember – certain things to not always need to match as much as ‘fit together’ to achieve harmony and beauty. True beauty has no rules!

Red heads have a tendency to show off your lighter and more vibrant eye colors. Think of how aquamarine blue or deep jade green eyes seem to glow against a red head. The more vibrant the reds – the more the eyes seem to glow. This is not to say that if you have brown eyes to avoid reds. It just simply means the color of your eyes will be enhanced.

There is something about the deep shades of brown hair color that brings alive the seductive beauty of those with deep chocolate eyes. The two colors work in a mysterious unison that brings alive a timeless feminine allure that seems to be unmatched.

That being said–If you have ever encountered someone with deep, dark hair color and crystalline blue eyes, you seem to become drawn into them hypnotically and unable to look away. (I can also say this for green, hazel… okay; dark hair is pretty flattering and flexible!)

Blonde hair and blue eyes seems to be the ubiquitous head turner. Maybe it is the iconic allure of the ‘girl next door’, or that the brightness of the hair brings out the brightness of the eyes, there is something striking and sexy about blondes with blue eyes.

Reality check! Many, many of the blondes I have encountered (converted) over the years did not start there, and no, I did not deny anyone because of their eye color. I also still found them as beautiful a blonde as if they kept their eyes shut. Blondes will indeed flatter you regardless of your eye color.

Remember, eye color shouldn’t be the deciding factor

If you really want an artistic, involved, and somewhat forensic evaluation of which eye color warrants what hair color you should be wearing, then there are those out there who will offer up their opinion. Personally, I find the match more of a serendipitous by-product of a great color selection.

If it is a paramount concern of yours though, you can always buy contacts!

So you have decided to take the plunge and dive head first into hair color (pun intended). It is not that you are old or drab, but sometimes things just look better with a fresh coat of paint! That being said, there are still a few things to consider before choosing whether or not you will be a platinum bombshell, a sultry redhead, or demure brunette.

HOW IS IT GOING TO BE DONE?

When you first stare at the mirror and decide it’s time for a change, you must then make the decision as to who is going to tackle the task. If you are going to go the professional route, your job will be easier as the professionals will have a vast array of tubes, bottles, brushes, and foils that can most certainly address your needs. They are prepared to tackle most scenarios and they are able to recover if there is a ‘whoops’ moment. If you do indeed select the salon professional as your color confidant, you can rest assured that the products they use are typically of optimal quality.

However, if you choose to go it alone, realize up front that you cannot take off your head and set it in your lap, and therefore your application skills are more limited. Do not embark on this journey by selecting multi-dimensional color with splash panels of peek-a-boo highlights. It is about baby-steps my friends!

WHICH HAIR COLOR PRODUCT SHOULD YOU USE?

First, let’s start with a very important realization. The boxes on the grocery store shelf were done by professional hairdressers, using professional photographers, add a pinch of Photoshop (or maybe a dollop), and you have the beautiful lure and illusion which is a hair dye box. These boxes are meant to grab your attention so you grab and toss them into your cart. Remember this; just because it is on the box, does not mean it will appear on your head!

As is stated in the article Hair Dye Guide, there are many facets of hair color selection prior to getting to the shade. Aside from how much money you want to spend, you must first decide on what needs you are trying to fill (covering gray, cosmetic enhancement, or a fashion statement), as well as the type of maintenance you are willing to endure. I suggest if you have not done so, check out my tips on selecting the ‘type’ of hair dye product that would best suit you and your goals.

As I also stated in the aforementioned article, it is imperative to align the desired end result with the appropriate skill-set of the person performing the service. You may have the top brand on the planet, but without knowing and respecting the product’s potential and quirks, you may be an expensive color correction waiting to happen. When in doubt–don’t!

THE BENEFITS OF THE SALON

In salon services, cost is affected by a few things. First, the image and reputation of the salon is often a price influencer. Those with the best names, public recognition, awards, and media presence will charge much more for their services as opposed to their up-and-coming counterparts.

Hair salons also have a huge inventory of products to expand your menu for selection. These salons usually get where they are due to a high level of talent, and you will indeed pay for it. This is also because of the amenities you enjoy while receiving the service. If you do not care that the towel used to dry your hair has a spritz of lavender on it or that the mirrors were flown in from the southern coast of France, then you have some margin to play with here. In salons, you pay more; period.

In salon services, you will get more than just a color stained towel in your sink and a sense of self-satisfaction. But you will have a few less bucks to spend on that purse you have been eye-balling.

COLORING YOUR HAIR AT HOME

Do-it-yourself hair color products will generally fall into a range. From the high profile brands, to the obscure imported products, my experience is that they all fall into a price category that is attractive to those who don’t feel the need to spend the big bucks to achieve their new color. Statistically, about 75% of people still tackle their hair color needs in the privacy of their own home so, do not feel insecure about your choice to do so.

The brands from high to low scale will often only be a few dollars in difference. These choices also will typically fall into one ‘sweet spot’ of effectiveness as the high majority of people who color their hair at home simply want to hide their gray and do not venture too far into creative expression (you can usually tell those that try!) So in essence, my first tidbit of advice is determine your goals, decide salon or self, and then (for the sake of this article) if it is self, ‘nibble don’t gobble’ at first.

As I said earlier, the boxes can be deceiving and I do not care how sexy the model, or shiny the box, if you are espresso brown, you will NOT end up a platinum blonde by doing a one process home coloring! The ‘permanent’ hair colors only lift your color by a couple (three max) levels and do have their limits. If you want dramatic or funky-effects, seek the salon (at least until you know your abilities).

Finally, to get the most bang for your buck, realize you can always ‘step it up’ easier than you can ‘step it down’. This means you can go from a semi –permanent, to a similar shade with a stronger developer. However, once you have used a permanent color, by going back to a semi or demi permanent hair color, you will still have the previously compromised hair fabric on your head, you will have regrowth, and the ends will need refreshed.

WHICH HAIR COLOR BRAND IS BEST?

Most big brands offer these options without having to switch ranges. Also (insider tip), the brands that salons use such as L’Oreal and Clairol are also are available in consumer forms. You get the same research and development behind the products at your disposal. They are also within a few dollars of their shelf-sharing counterparts. Just remember, it is the talent that affects the outcome in most cases, so after you choose your favorite brand, come to terms with your abilities (for at least the first time or two).

Bottom line is, if you are going to a salon, do your homework, you will pay more, and salon costs can vary by hundreds of dollars. If you are searching on your own, I recommend a simple approach of choosing brands you have heard of. As I also mentioned, some of the big salon names also have selections available to consumers. They have the history and reputation to back their products.

So you’ve decided to color your hair, heck, you might even be one of the lucky ones that has already found the perfect shade. However excited you are to make the color transition, there are still some big decisions to be made to make sure you achieve the most spectacular results.

If you have ever strolled down the hair color aisle at the beauty supply outlet or grocery store, you will have been inundated with row after row of vibrant and perfectly coiffed beauties with impeccable color. So how do you select the best hair dye for you?

For those who decide they are ready to rock their locks in the privacy of their own bathroom, I have drawn up the below summary of the different hair color products available. Most, if not all, of these can be found in your local pharmacy or grocery store, but if you are lucky enough to live near a beauty supplier that sells hair dye to the public, I suggest starting there as they will have someone who may be able to offer some degree of advice. In most cases it is not so much the ‘quality’ of the product, as the skill in application and proper selection to achieve the desired end result.

When choosing a hair dye the major consideration (all shades and color choices aside) is the ‘type’ of hair color product you select. These not only affect the longevity and change potential, but your cost (especially if going professional), maintenance, and potential wear and tear on the hair fabric.

COLOR RINSES

These are products from days of old when people rolled and set their hair. They come in natural shades (remember though, gray is natural, and so is mousy blonde) that are not the most flattering. They are meant to ‘blend’ gray until it is shampooed out. However, if you use them and are caught in the rain, beware. The best way to describe it is to have a child paint a watercolor picture and then hit it with the hose. You get the idea.

GLOSSERS

These are often used to complement existing hair color rather than replace it. Think of putting on sunglasses. The shade does not totally change what you see, but puts a filter over it. You change the hue. If you do not first enhance or alter what is underneath, often times the outcome is unnoticeable or unflattering. With no initial color change, using a clear glosser at least enhances shine.

SEMI/DEMI PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

Many time people claim that these ‘wash out in twelve shampoos’. Well, from twenty five years of doing hair, my experience is that this is somewhat untrue.

Even if the brilliance of the initial color has left, there is still evidence left behind which still means you have to maintain the process somehow. Semi permanent colors do contain a small degree of peroxide, or an activator that acts as peroxide to allow the color to work. Over time these can dry your hair if not properly applied as people have a tendency to ‘dump n’ rub’ them on the hair.

These ‘temporary’ hair dyes are best for subtle color enhancement, tone-on-tone coloring, and for the novice who wants to dip their toe in the waters, so-to-speak.

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

This is where the rubber glove meets the road. These products do contain varying degrees of peroxide. However peroxide is not the ‘big old meany’ that many make it out to be. It is a necessary component of the coloring process. However, if the hands of the ‘disrespectful’, it can sometimes lead to a scarring memory.

Peroxide simply softens and swells the hair to allow color to do its job. It removes some of your natural color to make way for the new selected shade. This allows for a deeper penetration as opposed to a more subtle ‘staining’ action of other color products. Peroxide also allows for greater levels of lift, hue selection, changes, and creativity.

However this extra room for creativity also also raises the potential for mishap in untrained hands (and at times, even the trained!) I recommend caution; or at least having a girlfriend in proximity who will give you her brutal opinion if you opt away from the salon. Plus it is good to have a set of eyes that can see the back of your head to make sure you don’t miss spots.

HIGHLIGHTS

This is a process of taking randomly selected strands of hair to lighten for dimension, effect, and interest. It can be as subtle or as daring as the wearer chooses. This can be done with foils, balayage, or even through the ‘old-school’ frosting cap.

This is where dexterity, an adept practitioner, and a trained eye can really be useful. Lightening hair has the greatest potential for damage and disaster. I know, I know; the cute little kits you see on the television make it look so easy. Many hairdressers buy their summer homes with the fees they charge by correcting these mistakes!

If you must do this at home, enlist a trusted, skilled friend if you choose to avoid the stylists’ chair. As far as platinum blonde and toners – go seek a trained professional. ‘Nuff said.