Anthony Anders - 3/4 - Hair Color Code

Matching Your Hair Style And Color

September 6, 2011 By Anthony Anders 7 Comments

Whether you already have the color of your dreams and need a new style, or simply want to spice up the cute bob you have fallen in love with, matching your cut and color into perfect harmony doesn’t need to be difficult.

Put your mind to rest as there are no steadfast rules. Much of the match is based on intuition and a little personal flair.

As I said, there are no rules; however there are a few ways to enhance your color in tandem with the style you wear. So do not feel that you have to lop off your locks to flatter your color or that you have to bleach your hair because you have long layers. Taste and personality still take the reins.

Before you we start, some considerations…

Here are some things to consider. There are certain shapes and textures that will allow the nature of the hair color to best present itself. Sometimes it is also the ‘techniques’ that can turn up the volume so-to-speak.

From subtle to shocking, tossing in a new color technique such as highlights or dimensional color techniques can bring out the elements of the cut you wish to spotlight.

The best color for long hair

Long, one-length hair can always show off the luster and richness of any color. Whether it is brunette, blonde, or red – a long flowing veil of color is always eye-popping. The downside is if your color is faded, uneven, or dull, this will also stand out for the world to see.

Long hair is also older hair so there are varying levels of porosity which makes evenness and shine more difficult to maintain. So if you are good at keeping your hair healthy, trimmed, and protected this option is always a trophy in my book.

The best color for medium length hair

Medium to long hair styles with layers are always a great way to show off a great head of highlights. The flowing nature of the layers with the added textural movement really showcases what highlights can do.

Adding a few lighter pieces around the face and crown give a vibrant, refreshing halo which add the appearance of youth, vitality, and just looks plain sexy. To give the illusion of bulk (as well as adding volume through the chemical processes themselves), adding highlights and lowlights together can add more support to the hair.

The best color for cropped and short hair

The shorter looks and crops give a whole new realm of options to creative color. Not only do you have more flexibility for change since you have to cut it more often, you can add bits and pieces of color techniques and take your color on a journey.

Maybe one time you can put a couple foils in your bangs (or “fringe” for my British brethren), maybe next time tint the nape a touch darker for some depth and dimension. Maybe you can Balayage the tips in one visit to look as if you have spent time on vacation (even if you haven’t left your cubicle.) Be playful and be expressive! Short hair plays nicely with a large variety of colors and the more vibrant the better!

The beauty is you can wear virtually any style with any color and make it work. To make adjustments without sacrificing either your hair or your favorite shade, consider tweaking the technique. Little playful punctuations can tailor the color to work and fit you and your personality. With some creativity, and a bottle or brush, your cut and color can be a match made in heaven!

Guide To Dying/Dyeing Your Hair Blonde

August 23, 2011 By Anthony Anders 2 Comments

Whether you want to look like you have been to the beach or to the bleach, there are a few things to consider prior to going blonde.

Blondes do draw a lot of attention, but to get the attention you will find an added commitment to the color is required, needing more of your time and effort than some other shades.

When going blonde you must take a good peek at your current complexion. For example, if you have a lot of gold or yellow undertones in your skin, you may want to avoid strong golden hues or it may have a tendency to make you look monochromatic or even like you are not feeling well.

Complementing those tones with strawberry shades or coppers are good selections and also lend themselves to a broad spectrum of application.

Pale, cooler skin types are often flattered by the ash or champagne tones that even out your complexion. With this skin, adding highlights to frame the darker blonde shade does wonders for those who are fair. Check out pictures of people who have your complexion and the shades that suit them to start your research.

Tip: You can always take a lap through a wig store and ‘try on’ certain colors and see not only how you look, but how you feel in certain shades!

Maintaining your new blonde hair

The next thing to consider is maintenance. The further you deviate from your natural shade, the more frequently you will have to attend to the regrowth. Those who totally bleach their hair will see “peppers” (immediate evidence of darker hair growing in) within a few days of application. If you ever thought your hair doesn’t grow – bleach your hair, you will be amazed!

Blondes do require upkeep, and in the industry we used to say that “our blondes built our homes!” If you can’t afford more frequent color purchases at home or salon visits (often twice as often or more), then avoid going too light!

Tip: Sometimes you can get away with only doing your part and hairline in between. Make sure your style permits this before avoiding tune-ups or stretching your maintenance. I don’t care what Hollywood says, roots aren’t cool!

Coloring your hair blonde without the full commitment…

For those who want less of a commitment, try adding a few foils. Foils add a few lighter strands of color throughout your hair to brighten and add interest. It is also a good way to progressively go lighter. I also recommend people adding two shades with their foils, one slightly lighter than the next to keep it looking natural.

This way you can also add a few darker shades with a change of season without having to do a color correction. This skill is harder for to attempt on yourself, so if home color is your choice, it is wise to have a confidant close by!

Tip: You can purchase colored hair extensions that clip in and test the color strands before altering your natural fabric. Also many extensions can be colored to help you find a palatable shade. This way you can determine how large and how light you would like your color before making it permanent!

You can also combine techniques to gain a more natural outcome. This means you can lighten your natural level (in the industry we will call this ‘breaking the base’), and then add some highlights to further lighten your hair by gaining a depth and dimension that solid color cannot always provide.

This also breaks up your commitment as the regrowth line is less distinct (in some cases). Combining techniques requires more skill and the abilities of whoever is doing the application should be considered.

Tip: To save money you can consider doing your own home color and then having a professional add a few strategic highlights to complement your work. This way you avoid the potential mishap of heavy-handed highlights at home and the possibility of irreparable damage!

The risks of dying your hair blonde

Finally, going lighter does pose risk. You have to remove the unwanted depth by using a lightener whether that is bleach or high strength developer. These do not allow for much margin for error or overlap. The hair can only endure certain amounts of chemical onslaught before it will disintegrate.

With hair lighteners there can be a fine line between turning heads and turning stomachs! If you go too light to where the hair is “fried,” the only true way to fix the problem is patience, the shears, and a box of tissues. Deep conditioners can only temporarily add some moisture, but honestly do not bring the hair back. At this point the ability for the hair to hold any toners or color is all but lost, so respect your hair and your abilities!

Tip: If you are in doubt as to what your hair will endure, cut a small strand from a discreet area and process it first (completely as you would on your whole head). This will allow you to see what your whole head may look like without the pain of finding out you probably should have stayed a brunette.

As has been said before, brands will take a backseat to skill in most cases, but I do appreciate the long-term expertise in research and development of some of the time-tested brands.

Those such as Wella, L’Oreal, and Clairol do indeed have solid histories especially when it comes to blonde color, bleaches, and toners. I also highly recommend avoiding the ‘I can make your hair look just like the sun did it’ products. They are typically peroxide based without the added necessary colors needed for the beautiful end result.

The key thing is preparing yourself for the bold revealing. Whether it is a nervous giggle or courageous growl, being blonde will change you. Blondes are beautiful, alluring, and fun, consider the above points, and then go for it!

Talking Hair Color With Your Salon Colorist

July 17, 2011 By Anthony Anders 2 Comments

Sometimes sitting in the Colorists’ chair can conjure an anxiety paralleled by a trip to the dentist, but it doesn’t have to. In the same way you wouldn’t go to your Doctor and instruct them on what they should use, and how they should use it, you will first benefit by trying to develop a respectful relationship.

This doesn’t mean that you have to let the Colorist ‘do what they want’, it means you should create an interactive dialogue of speaking and listening to negotiate the best services and shades for you. Here are a few tips to arm yourself with good questions and knowledge to make your visit a pleasurable one.

Speak in terms you know

What I mean by this is, do not get overly caught up in trying to speak like a hairdresser. Those who would come and sit in my chair acting as if they went to beauty school (and heaven forbid if they did) were more cumbersome than those who were honest about what little they knew. You can communicate better by saying I want an ‘Irish Setter red’ or ‘Butterscotch Blonde’ than saying, ‘I want a level twelve double process blonde with a toner having a primary pigment of lavender to offset the gold pull potential’. It is better to speak of the desired results than the process to get you there.

Don’t be fearful of bringing in visual aids

Pictures are a fabulous tool to communicate what you want. They are not a menu though! You cannot hand the stylist a photo and say, ‘Yes, I will have the Julia Roberts please!’ It is not that easy. Photos will let the Colorist know how light or dark you desire, shades of color that catch your eye, or even things you really do not wish to see. Just remember, they are only a communication tool, and do not hold the Colorist to matching your real life hair to a crumpled photo you have had in your purse for six years!

Discuss your budget upfront

Hair color is an investment and requires attention to the maintenance or you will not get the full benefits. Some techniques require you to have a permanent parking space at the salon, and others will give you up to a couple months in between visits. It is not just the price you pay on day one, but in each succeeding visit. Sometimes you can stagger the services needed for upkeep, and some require support services such as sealers, refreshers, and conditioners to maximize color care. Ask this up front as you do not want to be two retouches in and have to take on a night job to pay for your new hair.

Find out if you will have to become a ‘frequent foiler’

Aside from the budget, the frequency of visits to the salon for maintenance is essential to keeping your color looking great. If you only show up at the salon every leap-year, you may want to avoid those services that require monthly maintenance. Most colors do require attention every four to six weeks, so you can count on that in most cases. It is better to ask before you go under the dryer as to how often you must return for a tune-up.

Product support

Some hair products can thoroughly undo a beautiful color service in an instant. (I will let you in on a secret – in the salon we used to use a certain volumizing shampoo as a hair color removal tool!) Hair products can protect or destroy color in a short manner of time if not properly selected. As color can also compromise the strength and integrity of hair fabric in some cases, it is wise to chat with your Colorist about this. Aside from factoring the cost into your budget, it is a way to protect your beauty investment.

Before succumbing to the allure of the fancy words and adjectives such as ‘delicious vanilla blonde’, the wise consumer takes a practical look into the not-so-glamorous side of color. It is through respectful negotiation with your Colorist that you will gain not only a beautiful outcome, but a true and trusted confidant for years to come.

Hair Coloring Basics – Where do I start?

July 12, 2011 By Anthony Anders 3 Comments

So you have decided to take the plunge and dive head first into hair color (pun intended). It is not that you are old or drab, but sometimes things just look better with a fresh coat of paint! That being said, there are still a few things to consider before choosing whether or not you will be a platinum bombshell, a sultry redhead, or demure brunette.

HOW IS IT GOING TO BE DONE?

When you first stare at the mirror and decide it’s time for a change, you must then make the decision as to who is going to tackle the task. If you are going to go the professional route, your job will be easier as the professionals will have a vast array of tubes, bottles, brushes, and foils that can most certainly address your needs. They are prepared to tackle most scenarios and they are able to recover if there is a ‘whoops’ moment. If you do indeed select the salon professional as your color confidant, you can rest assured that the products they use are typically of optimal quality.

However, if you choose to go it alone, realize up front that you cannot take off your head and set it in your lap, and therefore your application skills are more limited. Do not embark on this journey by selecting multi-dimensional color with splash panels of peek-a-boo highlights. It is about baby-steps my friends!

WHICH HAIR COLOR PRODUCT SHOULD YOU USE?

First, let’s start with a very important realization. The boxes on the grocery store shelf were done by professional hairdressers, using professional photographers, add a pinch of Photoshop (or maybe a dollop), and you have the beautiful lure and illusion which is a hair dye box. These boxes are meant to grab your attention so you grab and toss them into your cart. Remember this; just because it is on the box, does not mean it will appear on your head!

As is stated in the article Hair Dye Guide, there are many facets of hair color selection prior to getting to the shade. Aside from how much money you want to spend, you must first decide on what needs you are trying to fill (covering gray, cosmetic enhancement, or a fashion statement), as well as the type of maintenance you are willing to endure. I suggest if you have not done so, check out my tips on selecting the ‘type’ of hair dye product that would best suit you and your goals.

As I also stated in the aforementioned article, it is imperative to align the desired end result with the appropriate skill-set of the person performing the service. You may have the top brand on the planet, but without knowing and respecting the product’s potential and quirks, you may be an expensive color correction waiting to happen. When in doubt–don’t!

THE BENEFITS OF THE SALON

In salon services, cost is affected by a few things. First, the image and reputation of the salon is often a price influencer. Those with the best names, public recognition, awards, and media presence will charge much more for their services as opposed to their up-and-coming counterparts.

Hair salons also have a huge inventory of products to expand your menu for selection. These salons usually get where they are due to a high level of talent, and you will indeed pay for it. This is also because of the amenities you enjoy while receiving the service. If you do not care that the towel used to dry your hair has a spritz of lavender on it or that the mirrors were flown in from the southern coast of France, then you have some margin to play with here. In salons, you pay more; period.

In salon services, you will get more than just a color stained towel in your sink and a sense of self-satisfaction. But you will have a few less bucks to spend on that purse you have been eye-balling.

COLORING YOUR HAIR AT HOME

Do-it-yourself hair color products will generally fall into a range. From the high profile brands, to the obscure imported products, my experience is that they all fall into a price category that is attractive to those who don’t feel the need to spend the big bucks to achieve their new color. Statistically, about 75% of people still tackle their hair color needs in the privacy of their own home so, do not feel insecure about your choice to do so.

The brands from high to low scale will often only be a few dollars in difference. These choices also will typically fall into one ‘sweet spot’ of effectiveness as the high majority of people who color their hair at home simply want to hide their gray and do not venture too far into creative expression (you can usually tell those that try!) So in essence, my first tidbit of advice is determine your goals, decide salon or self, and then (for the sake of this article) if it is self, ‘nibble don’t gobble’ at first.

As I said earlier, the boxes can be deceiving and I do not care how sexy the model, or shiny the box, if you are espresso brown, you will NOT end up a platinum blonde by doing a one process home coloring! The ‘permanent’ hair colors only lift your color by a couple (three max) levels and do have their limits. If you want dramatic or funky-effects, seek the salon (at least until you know your abilities).

Finally, to get the most bang for your buck, realize you can always ‘step it up’ easier than you can ‘step it down’. This means you can go from a semi –permanent, to a similar shade with a stronger developer. However, once you have used a permanent color, by going back to a semi or demi permanent hair color, you will still have the previously compromised hair fabric on your head, you will have regrowth, and the ends will need refreshed.

WHICH HAIR COLOR BRAND IS BEST?

Most big brands offer these options without having to switch ranges. Also (insider tip), the brands that salons use such as L’Oreal and Clairol are also are available in consumer forms. You get the same research and development behind the products at your disposal. They are also within a few dollars of their shelf-sharing counterparts. Just remember, it is the talent that affects the outcome in most cases, so after you choose your favorite brand, come to terms with your abilities (for at least the first time or two).

Bottom line is, if you are going to a salon, do your homework, you will pay more, and salon costs can vary by hundreds of dollars. If you are searching on your own, I recommend a simple approach of choosing brands you have heard of. As I also mentioned, some of the big salon names also have selections available to consumers. They have the history and reputation to back their products.

But if all else fails, look to your friends who have colored their hair. Who impresses you with the results you see? You will find that many times your friends will have a wealth of recommendations as well as caveats that will help you crack the color code!

Red Hair – The New Color On The Block

July 11, 2011 By Anthony Anders 21 Comments

Whether you covet the ginger beauty of a fair skinned Irish maiden to the bold crimson locks of a big screen villainess, red heads are a sorority of a select few that command attention and admiration.

Red hair color is a polarizing subject to which you will find strong opinion on both sides of the line. Whether you love it, or it is not for you, red heads have a vibe and appeal all their own.

Adding red into your hair color palette offers a variety of options regardless of the level (lightness or darkness) of hair you currently have. You can choose the deep burgundy shades, auburns, and chestnuts that flatter the darker levels, to the kiss of copper or strawberry found in blondes and virtually any level in between.

Which red shade is right for me?

The cooler, crimson and wine shades will best work on those with a darker hair color level desire. These allow the brown undertones to balance out the coolness and keep the cool reds from appearing too pink or magenta. As you scale upward in lightness, opt for more of the coppers and copper-golds as either your tone or true color selection.

Although reds work with most skin tones as they add richness and a healthy glow–the paler skin tones are more forgiving. If you have a lot of gold or yellow in your skin–watch adding too much of a gold or yellow based red as it will enhance the yellow in your skin and may make you appear like you are not feeling well (but hey, that is what makeup is for right?) If you have a more olive complexion, it will be easier for you to pull off the darker and cooler shades.

When reds start to fade…

Okay, let’s address the elephant in the room–reds fade. They can fade faster if you put them over porous hair, lightened hair, use hot tools and blow dryers, or use poor hair products. Reds, like blondes, are a commitment all their own and also need to have a game plan up front.

Like brunettes, many red formulas offer semi/demi permanent options that will allow you the ability to tone and richen up your hair in between retouches. These also cost money, so factor them into your color budget.

Hint: Often you can find color enhancing shampoos that have a subtle toning pigment in the formula you can use as your red color fades.

Which hair styles suit red hair?

When considering your style, your options remain pretty open with red shades. From the long and demure to the short and funky, reds work in tandem with your style as opposed to dominating it. Red hair color will simply take your look to the next level.

To add spice to your already spicy color, add a few highlights or balayage to give more distinction and illusion of movement to your color. It is also fun to pick a red base shade and add a few red/blonde highlights and deeper red lowlights. If you look close enough, you will see that most natural redheads are a combination of many shades of red and gold.

Go for and join the red hair revolution!

While only a small fraction of the United States population consists of redheads (2% give or take), this does not diminish the bold statement that this look can make.

Take it from Hollywood and stars like Lucille Ball, Cynthia Nixon, Isla Fisher, and Julia Roberts (none of which were born redheads FYI), going red can make an impact on how you look and feel. Who knows, maybe by becoming a redhead you may begin a path to your own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame!