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Hair Highlights – The Ultimate Guide

February 6, 2012 By Anthony Anders 13 Comments

Brunette with lighter hair highlights

Whether giving Mother Nature a nudge, or taking your enhanced hair color to the next level, highlights can add interest and dimension to your style! From selecting subtle streaks or going for bold splashes, highlights allow you to personalize your color and add a touch of flair to your hair.

First Things First

Now first off I want to stress that when you start to venture into the highlighting (or low lighting) game, the skill levels needed increase dramatically! Since this is a technique of taking strategically selected pieces of hair that coincide with the chosen hair style, it is best to not do this as your first attempt at cosmetic enhancement. Although it can be done at home, skilled hands are essential. Without proper technique, bad color can happen to good people!

That being said, highlights can perform a variety of benefits. Not only do they add depth, movement, and eye-catching color complements, in some cases they can actually extend the time between retouches.

Woman with natural blonde highlights

The highlights will have a tendency to diminish the visible line between your natural hair growing in and the chosen color – unless of course you have opted for a shade at the opposite end of the color spectrum.

The highlights visually ‘break up’ the line of demarcation, and many people feel that they get a little while longer between tune-ups as the noticability of the regrowth is lessened and looks a bit more natural.

(NOTE – Most color services still require attention between the four and six week mark!)

For those with baby-fine or silky hair, highlights (whether alone or partnered with another color service) will add a bit more ‘oomph’ to the hair fabric. Many feel that the extra volume they are able to achieve is well worth the highlights regardless of the cosmetic noticability. Also by adding two or more colors in your highlight palette, you can add the illusion of having more hair as the density issue is overshadowed by the interest created by the infusion of new colors.

Your options in highlights vary, so here are some of your choices if you decide to take this route:

Frosting Caps

Woman having highlights through a frosting cap

Many have heard of the ‘frosting’ caps of days of old. In small cases (very small), these can still work. But take note, you are best to have short layered hair – the thicker the better; if not, you better have a tough scalp and pain tolerance (the hair is yanked through a small rubber hole in a cap with a crochet hook), and you are best to not really care much about the outcome aside from the fact your hair is going to be lighter. So, in short– ‘caveat emptor’ (let the buyer beware!)

Foil Highlights

Woman with foil highlights

Among the most beautiful highlights are the strands you receive from the skilled hands of a professional. Often foils are used to isolate the chosen strands that allow them to process without the color bleeding. This skill is one that requires training, dexterity, and an artist’s eye.

However, it goes without saying that this will cost you, and the bills can add up if you go to a premium salon. Often foil highlights can be one of the priciest of salon services (for a full head.) A quick insider tip – upon consultation, you are often able be able to get a ‘sample’ by only doing a few sunny strands along your part line or to frame your face. You can always turn up the brightness too, so when sampling, baby-steps are recommended.

Panel Highlights

Woman having thick highlights in salon

Panels, splashes, and veils (there are many names) are larger sections of color than can be few centimeters or more in width. They are for a more dramatic effect and are often used to make a dramatic color statement.

These are harder to retouch, so I also recommend consulting a professional on this method. Since this technique also looks good by using a few different colors that complement one another, this may also cost you more than single process applications.

Balayage Highlights

Salon colorist giving balayage highlights

Balayage (derived from the French word meaning ‘to sweep’) is a beautiful, natural method of hand-painting randomly selected strands of hair to mimic the sun shining on the hair.

The impressionist style of painting is harmoniously placed to bring out the most of the style. The color is painted in soft, sweeping strokes, and the regrowth is almost undetectable as the color seems to just ‘appear’. Since this often uses a very strong chemical product it is my recommendation you do not try this at home! Even professionals must have a skilled touch and keen eye (and a paid insurance policy) to pull this off!

Go forth and highlight!

Although costly at times in a salon (do your research), it is my professional opinion to keep highlights out of your kitchen (without practice – a lot of practice) as it can cost you a car payment to get fixed if done incorrectly.

Choose what you would like to see in your style and then match the method accordingly. Browse through many hair color photos and see what catches your eye. It is best to fit the technique to the desired end result. Highlighting and low lighting (same technique, just adding darker pieces) are a great way to tweak and personalize your hair color statement.

Whether alone or in tandem with another service – highlights will bring out the best in your hair color!

Filed Under: Hair Color Guides

Winter Hair Color – Styling For The Season

October 11, 2011 By Anthony Anders Leave a Comment

Woman in snow with dark winter hair color

As summer turns to autumn turns to winter, it’s not unusual to feel the urge for a change when it comes to our hair color. Maybe we are inspired by the rich shades of the falling leaves, maybe it’s a preemptive attempt to counter the winter blues, but there are many practical reasons why now is a great time to make a change.

Through the fun and frivolity that summer brings many of us neglect our hair and subject it to the extremes of sun, chlorine from pools, or being tossed and tousled during blustery motorcycle and scooter rides, or we simply forgo regular maintenance. By autumn, our hair is in need of some major love to return it to a healthy state–and to prepare ourselves for a few months of darker fashion trends.

So what hair colors look best in winter?

Woman with dark brown curly hair in winter scarf
Woman with blonde hair in winter
Young girl with red hair in the show
woman with black hair in the snow

Since fabrics become richer and deeper in the winter months, often people opt to complement this by taking their hair a bit darker. This is not to say you have to go from honey blonde to dark chocolate, but a casual dimming of the brightness may be in order.

For blondes, adding richer darker blonde lowlights can add depth and replace some of the dimension lost by the ravages of the sun. For medium to dark shades, a color bath to add subtle shade richness and tonal enhancement can be a welcome intervention. You can add a hint of warmth by adding auburn or chestnut, or you can replace some of the cooler tones to remove unwanted brassy notes.

When we are denied access to the suns bronzing rays, those of us with fairer complexions revert back to our more pasty origins. Yes, I know there are alternatives (*cough* tanning booths) and makeup, but when the sun disappears behind a cloud, deepening your hair color keeps you from looking washed out.

It is wise not to go too dark if you simply want to stay in harmony with your skin as this could become counter-productive, simply opt for a level or two of richness for effective seasonal tweaking.

On the catwalks, the winter collections often use a darker richer palette, and as our hair is the only fashion accessory we never remove many of us decide that our own color statement is in need of attention.

However you should never listen to the experts (including me!) if it becomes counter-intuitive or if you get a separation anxiety from your beach-blonde or chocolate brunette.

It all comes down to comfort, self-esteem, and projecting your unique personal style. It is wise whatever the weather to make sure your hair reflects your personality, and remains healthy and well maintained.

You don’t have to wait till winter to make the change

The seasons need not be the only catalyst for change – if you are feeling an overwhelming need to thumb through hair magazines it could be that you are just bored with your current look, or want to expand your fashion repertoire, or are simply looking for new ways to express yourself.

My advice is to not look for change with the onset of the new season or when the fashion mags hit the shelves, but whenever you want to explore ways to keep your style fresh, exciting, and a true expression of who you are.

All the leaves are brown, and the sky is gray… some non-permanent shades to brighten up your day:

  • Clairol Natural Instincts 16, Spiced Tea, Light Auburn
  • Garnier Herbashine Haircolor, 645 Copper Mahogany Brown
  • Claudia Stevens Hair Highlighter Gold
  • Clairol Professional Jazzing 80: Toasted Chestnut
  • Lush Henna Hair Dye Caca Brun Mama: Rich Dark Brown

Filed Under: Hair Color Ideas

Covering Gray Hair – A Simple Guide

October 4, 2011 By Anthony Anders 1 Comment

Woman finding a gray hair

I am a fan of gray hair. There is something that is truly alluring about a shiny silver mane sported in a classy, chic style. However not everyone has the fabric, the skin, or the desire to go the route of the ‘silver fox’.

For some, gray hair signifies something completely different, and its swift concealment is the only solution.

Ranging from the rare gray peaking through, to the full silver mane, pick the stage of cover that is right for you:

Stage One – The First Gray Hair

This is the peek-a-boo stage when you see a few pop up here and there. Firstly; tweezing one does not make two grow back, that’s a myth! It simply means that you have now crossed the threshold into becoming fertile ground for the little guys to sprout.

Since there are only a few here and there, consider semi permanent color options as they will not do too much alteration to your natural color (unless you want them to), and they will ‘stain’ your new color-challenged follicles. Even if the grays are not completely covered, the staining action makes them appear slightly ‘highlighted’ (per se) and will still be forgiving. If total coverage is your goal, move on to stage two.

Stage Two – The Gray Invasion

This is when you realize your uninvited guests are here to stay. This is when it’s time to seek a more permanent solution. There are many color options and this can be a fun opportunity to explore new styles and colors.

There are a couple of things to consider however; firstly, gray hair is often (and no one is sure why) more course and unruly and has a more difficult time adhering as opposed to your natural. The good news is there are many colors that are formulated for gray hair coverage that have a double dose of pigment. There are also additives and drops you can add to the formula that allow color to better cover (these are mainly professional options).

The second point is that if you ever thought your gray hair grows slowly; start coloring it. Your regrowth will show you directly how fast your hair grows. If you have not colored before, start to consider that you will now have a new category in your beauty budget!

Stage Three – There’s No Hiding From The Grays

This is when you find you are pretty much ‘salt and pepper’ (can’t anyone come up with a more flattering term?) or going totally gray. This is where you have to decide whether you are going to embrace the gray or continue to color (see stage two) – but assuming you opt for continual color (which is why I am here), I offer you these considerations.

Highlights are very forgiving in gray-dominated hair and adding streaks of blonde shades add a hint of youthful freshness (choose a couple for balance). Also, against the background of gray hair, they are much more forgiving in retouches. Some also opt for lowlights.

This is where you can add darker streaks back into the hair to start to incorporate the shades of days gone by back into your look. This allows your new color to play nicely with the gray that has taken over.

Whether you color your hair, and for how long, is a personal decision. How you perceive the appearance of gray is also a personal ponderance. Whether you reach for the bottle and brush, or simply nod in the satisfaction that you are fine the way you are, gray hair is simply another phase of life. For me, it can turn gray, as long as it doesn’t turn loose!

Filed Under: Hair Color Guides

Hair Color Is For Men Too!

September 29, 2011 By Anthony Anders 3 Comments

Model showing hair color for men

Okay gentlemen, here and now is the time to realize that we are allowed to make ourselves look and feel good just as much as the ladies.

Although the products and processes are similar, I do respect that the reasons prompting our journey, as well as the desired results, vary greatly between genders.

When a guy decides to color his hair, he has already made a bold breakthrough in accepting the fact that he is going to have to look really ‘uncool’ for about a half hour to do so.

That takes a lot for us, so give us some slack.

The beautiful thing is that most men do not opt for results that require a lot of dexterity to achieve, so we can tackle many of these needs in the privacy of our own bathroom. Although, accept that there are times when you may need to ask for help from a professional (this is not asking for directions you know!)

For those who opt for noticeable or fashionable color, often it is lightening that takes the spotlight. Fellas, please…do not divide your head into the northern and southern hemisphere and bleach the top totally leaving the underneath section dark. Avoid this unless you never want to date again, ever.

Coloring your hair blonde – The male way!

Man with blonde hair highlights

To get nice natural blonde effect – here is a great trick (especially for shorter hair). Use a firm hairspray and spray your hair straight out on end from your head. Think early 70’s punk (trust me, this is only temporary!)

Then mix your color or bleach (bleach works best for this believe it or not) and put on rubber gloves (don’t play the hero guys, chemical burns are not pretty!)

Place a dollop in the palm of your gloved hands and simply ‘touch’ the color onto the very tips of the spikes. Try to feather the color in a progressive manner as opposed to looking like you were ‘dipped’ in bleach. A little inconsistency is okay.

Also make sure to taper off the color where you plan to stop. Meaning if you only want to do the top, do it heavier on the very top, lesser over the sides until it is barely visible in the lower areas. Stay in front of a mirror and shampoo it off after about five to ten minutes. You can always re-apply but it is hard to go back. This gives a great “lifeguard blonde” look.

Men who want to use color to cover gray

Mature male with gray hair

For those who want to blend their gray, you can use the ‘soap cap’ technique mentioned in our article on natural hair coloring. The other natural color principles also apply here to men.

There are many products like ‘Just for Men’ that help blend gray and are formulated to address the needs of men, and many times these are also strong enough to tackle facial hair too.

If you are coloring the hair on top of your head, color your facial hair. If you don’t, you’re not fooling anyone!

Also, if the directions tell you to process for twenty minutes, check it in ten.

The first couple of times you will want to give yourself some time to get used to the new you. Going shoe polish black because you got caught up in the game on television during the color processing is only going to buy you a lot of teasing from your buddies. You can always re-apply more and process longer if necessary.

Should a man really color his hair?

young man with blonde highlights

With men, coloring your hair can be the difference between getting the job or not. Unfair as it may be, we can be judged of our capabilities by our appearance and perceived ‘maturity’. For those who are thinning (I say, “I am growing too tall for my hair, thank you very much”) color not only makes hair appear thicker, but it can diminish the overall thinning effect by giving hair more “oomph” and style-ability.

Hair color allows us to look and feel younger, vital, and fresh. Plus it is an advantage for those who want to spice up a current relationship, or put bait on the hook to secure a new one – we deserve to look good as much as anyone else does.

Since makeup is not an option for most men, hair color can make us look younger, more rested, current and tidy, and give us the confidence we need to do what we have to do. So guys set aside the unnecessary bravado and consider some color.

There is something to be said about the guy who takes pride in himself enough to always bring his A-game – that something is usually ‘wow!’

Filed Under: Hair Color Guides

Matching Your Hair Color With Your Eyes

September 20, 2011 By Anthony Anders 1 Comment

Woman with blonde hair and blue eyes

“It really brings out your eyes!” Have you heard this before? Have you said this before?

Yes, the eyes are the window to the soul, but this does not necessarily have to narrow your window to beautiful hair color options.

In my two and a half decades of hairdressing I have heard many theories on matching hair and eye colors. Some say cooler toned eyes should have cooler toned color. On the other hand, some say the complete opposite. Yet others will gaze forensically at your iris and say that you have ‘tiny flecks of gold’ in your eye color so you need gold tones.

I know it is confusing. Honestly, for me, eye color is only a small part of the recipe when it comes to color selection. There is personal style, taste, hair style, hair fabric, skin tone–on and on. Don’t feel because you were born with brown eyes you cannot be a blonde or that if you have green eyes, you must wear red. You are still free to choose!

So which shades match your eye color?

All that being said, there are still eye colors that come alive more so against certain hair color backgrounds. The same goes with certain skin tones and hair styles (click on the links to read more!) Remember – certain things to not always need to match as much as ‘fit together’ to achieve harmony and beauty. True beauty has no rules!

Red heads have a tendency to show off your lighter and more vibrant eye colors. Think of how aquamarine blue or deep jade green eyes seem to glow against a red head. The more vibrant the reds – the more the eyes seem to glow. This is not to say that if you have brown eyes to avoid reds. It just simply means the color of your eyes will be enhanced.

There is something about the deep shades of brown hair color that brings alive the seductive beauty of those with deep chocolate eyes. The two colors work in a mysterious unison that brings alive a timeless feminine allure that seems to be unmatched.

That being said–If you have ever encountered someone with deep, dark hair color and crystalline blue eyes, you seem to become drawn into them hypnotically and unable to look away. (I can also say this for green, hazel… okay; dark hair is pretty flattering and flexible!)

Blonde hair and blue eyes seems to be the ubiquitous head turner. Maybe it is the iconic allure of the ‘girl next door’, or that the brightness of the hair brings out the brightness of the eyes, there is something striking and sexy about blondes with blue eyes.

Reality check! Many, many of the blondes I have encountered (converted) over the years did not start there, and no, I did not deny anyone because of their eye color. I also still found them as beautiful a blonde as if they kept their eyes shut. Blondes will indeed flatter you regardless of your eye color.

Remember, eye color shouldn’t be the deciding factor

If you really want an artistic, involved, and somewhat forensic evaluation of which eye color warrants what hair color you should be wearing, then there are those out there who will offer up their opinion. Personally, I find the match more of a serendipitous by-product of a great color selection.

If it is a paramount concern of yours though, you can always buy contacts!

Filed Under: Hair Color Guides

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